Creation workshop download free






















You can use this software to prepare your stl. Print Studio keeps your production moving by analyzing, fixing and preparing your 3D files. You can use Print Studio to prepare your stl. Meshmixer is state-of-the-art software for working with triangle meshes.

Meshmixer is known for its advanced mesh editing functions and automatic support structure generating function. You can use Meshmixer to prepare your stl. FlashPrint provides a simple and easy to use user interface for preparing your 3D designs for printing on the Flashforge 3D printers.

You can use FlashPrint to generate support structures and export the supported model as stl. User Manual. NOTE that each printer can be slightly different due to certain manufacturing processes. Additionally, you can use our MaskCreator and its software to measure your printer's LCD output and create a custom mask profile that fits much better.

You can download the most recent firmware here. All firmware file is in hex. MODEL V will send confirmation messages, sensor data, and status codes back during normal operation or debug. A Serial Monitor is not required for normal operating. You can either use Arduino Serial Monitor or download this Serial port terminal. You can download the Arduino IDE here. You still need to properly configure the network settings, machine settings, and resin settings before printing. Download this pre-configured config file and use it for your Wi-Fi BOX for the correct display settings.

Rename the file to 'config. Download the machine profiles or resin profiles here and upload it to NanoDLP. Also, the profiles are a benchmark, each printer can vary slightly. Find the right settings for your machine by adjusting slightly around the profiles online. Download the measuring grid design files for different printers here. Creation Workshop. Learn more about Mask. You'll spend a lot of time in this window, configuring your resin.

Also a small help about Gcode commands to the printer, but you usually dont need to worry about that. There isnt really a lot of benefit to this, as you still need to switch colors then save the profile before slicing. You could just make a second profile instead of a sub-profile, and not have to change the colors and save The import part in this area is the Calibrate button.

This will bring up a smaller window, which you can use to fine tune your profiles. Basically, it prints a bunch of walls, then cures one layer at the various intervals. This will let you see at what curing time the resin needs to cure. Once you set your minimum time, and intervals, hit Print Test Model, and it will generate the code and images for your calibration object. When you are ready to print your calibration part, you can hit the play button at the top, like you would for any print.

Curing time -Bottom Exposure - This is the same as above, but only for the first X of layers. This is used so you can over-cure your bottom layers, to help get better adhesion to your bed. BLUE - Reflects slice image in either axis.

Most projectors have this adjustment build in already through the menu settings. This value is auto-calculated based on the below values.

I usually add little more time, to give the resin time to settle before trying to cure. This speed will depend on how well your parts peel off the vat. I usually have this set pretty high, because at this point the object shouldnt be attached to the vat anymore. The next window lets you define the various sections of Gcode the profile will build. The only edit I did to mine was at the end go to mm above vat. If you have an endstop configured, you can add homing to Start G If you have a wiper or vat peeler mechanism, you can add it to the lift section.

Here you will learn how to load parts and arrange them. You can scale, move, rotate, view, etc. First, you will want to load a part to play around with. You can do this by clicking on the folder in the top left hand corner. You will then need to find a STL file to load. I chose a 20mmx20mmx10mm calibration cube. On the right hand side you will see several menus. Each of these expands to give you several more options to pick from. Additionally, just to the left of these menus are some view options, for re-centering the view.

You can left click to rotate view, and right click to move view. The Home button top will return to the front view, and the Top button bottom will view the build platform from the top. Additionally, it will show any support material that is used under it. You will see more about support material in the next step. The cost is calculated from your slicing profile cost, based on the volume of the part. MOVE mm - This allows you to move the part.

There are several helpful buttons for arranging parts included. The first will place the part on the build surface, the second will center the part, and the third will auto-arrange parts onto the build platform. Auto-arrangement will happen automatically when you load new parts.

Below these 3 buttons are menus for moving the part in any direction. Just mirrors parts on that specific plane. Z is the plane created by the X and Y axes. You can either scale all of the axes at once, or one at a time. Additionally, there is a button for converting a part loaded in inches into mm, and vice versa. Next is how to add support material to your model. Once you have the support structure window up, there are several things you can do.

The first, simplest thing is to add a large base RED Box. This gives a nice, flat area for good adhesion to the bed. If you want to remove support you can use the yellow button near the button to remove all support. Or, you can switch back to Scene menu, select supports individually, and remove them.

The next button is the add manual support. You can select where you want support by clicking on the model where you would like support. The next button is auto-support.

This will automatically add support where it thinks it is needed. Below the support is a small 2D view of what the support looks like You can adjust the various thicknesses here. Any changes you make will be shown in that view, and next time you add support it will make that version of the support material. The dropdown menu below will either allow you to do bed of nails, which is a fairly evenly spaced bed, vs. Note that MeshMixer also has a great support structure tool, with alot more options.

You might make your support there, then add it all at once as a single model. First, go ahead and connect to your machine. This is done using the the plugged in cord at the top. Once you click it, it should attempt to connect.

When successful, the plug should gray out and the unplugged cord should turn white. Additionally a new 'window' should appear on your projector that is all black. This is so that it isn't curing resin before you hit print. Next you will want to slice the part you have loaded. The small cake looking button to the right of the two cords is the slice button.

This will bring up a smaller window that allows you to pick your resin profile to use for slicing. If you want, you can jump over to the Slice View window and take a look at the slices and Gcode before printing. When you are ready to start printing, go ahead and hit the Print button! It should start immediately printing. Pause will temporarily stop printing, and stop will stop the print entirely.

In these cases, sometimes its a good idea to lift the part up off the platform and print on a bed of nails, like in this example.

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